LGB Decoder Fitting Guides - UP 2-4-0

Step 2: Fitting the Cab Decoder

Now we have exposed the circuit board, lets get the decoder in there

Compared to the Stainz board, this one has plenty more capacitors and transistors on it, together with a host of wires; for the smoke generator, lights, and out the back to the socket to connect to the tender.

So, lets get down to business and pop the deocder in. As will all direct decoder installations, the wires on the decoder are not needed. All the power is transferred via the pins on the decoder, through the sockets on the main loco circuit board.

A intial gentle location into the socket, then a firm push down will locate the decoder in place.

The next crucial bit, (you did read the instructions that came with the decoder didn't you?) is to set the DIP switches

They must be set to "OFF", which on our circuit board is towards the front of the loco. Push them all as far as they will go, and then to make sure they are fully there, use a small flathead screwdriver to give them a little extra push.

And there we have it. The loco is complete. At this point i'd highly recommend testing it before re-assembly.

It was at this point that i noticed that the syncronised "chuff" audible from the tender was only idling throught my testing. It turns out this was the battery used for when the loco is stationary under DC power, so it doesn't fall silent. Little did i realise that a second decoder was needed for the tender to have control over the sounds.